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  • It's just not porn in any way.

    NJS crank and cockpit with old campag discs and an MTB seatpost, not to mention lame faux vintage frame.

  • If I had a spare $2000

  • My thoughts exactly

  • Quite like the re-issue's of Allan:

  • pfff

  • why has it only got a single crankest, wouldn't that badly limit the range?

  • Quite like the re-issue's of Allan

    It's in big letters on the picture you posted, yet you still couldn't get Alan's name right :-)

    The fork is killing it for me, if they wanted something OTP to go with their frame a Wound Up would look better, and that's probably the first time I've ever said that.

  • why has it only got a single crankest

    Welcome to 2014 - the year everybody finally realised that we used to be perfectly happy with 10 different gears over a 3:1 range for the vast majority of riding. 1×10 with a 12-36 cassette is actually a better way to arrange them than the old 48/36×14-28. It shifts better, you get all the gears in sequence without double-shifting, and you can bin half the crap which used to break or seize up.

  • ... and it's lighter

  • ...and more beaaaauuuuuuutiful

  • So the UCI won't allow it?

  • Damn, that's quite a bad spelling mistake haha.

    Don't think such a brand will go for Wound Up's on a OTP bicycle. However they could've chosen something nice I agree.

  • Chainset and saddle away from porn IMHO

  • Front-end looks messy.

  • Agree with you there, really should have XX1

  • do you what hubs are those by any chance?

  • There's something about deep sections on a non oversize tubed frame which doesn't work for me.

  • 1×10 with a 12-36 cassette is actually a better way to arrange them than the old 48/36×14-28.

    I don't know, technically it's a better arrangement, but the larger jump on the bigger sprocket made it harder to find the sweet spot.

  • the larger jump on the bigger sprocket

    Which larger jump? If you had a 14-28 5-speed* block, you'd be looking at jumping 24 to 28 as your last shift, which is a 14% drop. On a 12-36 10-speed cassette, the last shift is from 32 to 36, an 11% drop

    The whole gear range, taking a TA Cyclotouriste 42/28 to a 14-28 block vs. a 36T single to a SRAM 12-36 cassette goes like this:

    Old:
    80" 66" 56".. 53".. 47"..44"..40"..37" 31" 27"
    .. = double shift
    New:
    80" 74" 64" 57" 51" 44" 38" 34" 30" 27"

    By avoiding the near duplications, the 1×10 provides more even gear spacing over the same range.

    *It was the same on 6-speed, but the middle gears were nicer. 14-28 6-speed was a 14-24 5-speed with a 28 tacked on the end.

  • I was thinking more about the 6 speed freewheel rather than 5 due to the middle.

    The range probably make more sense on a lightweight road bike with a 42t chainring instead, 80" seemed rather too low for a fast descent.

  • The range probably make more sense on a lightweight road bike with a 42t chainring instead, 80" seemed rather too low for a fast descent.

    Use whatever ring you like, the proportional jumps between gears stay the same.

    Of course, 1×10 won't do for everything, it hits its practical limit at a total gear range of 3:1, beyond that you really do need more gears to avoid annoying gaps. Even road bikes without mountain gears have more a bit more than 3:1 with 53-39/11-26, but 3:1 gearing coupled with a 2:1 usable cadence range gives you a 6:1 speed range, from walking pace to 24mph. Either side of that, either walk or enjoy the freewheel for all non-racing purposes.

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Bike porn

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