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  • Hey, sorry for adding this to presumably the mounds of single speed conversion questions from relative noobs like myself. I realise there are resources out there that should cover the majority of this stuff, sheldon brown ect, but for some reason I've had no luck on shedding light on my particular question.
    Anywho, I just purchased a 70s Peugeot bike for a singe-speed conversion. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171472263702?_trksid=p2060778.m2750.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I had been endeavouring to get an 80s peugeot, as I get the impression they are a little bit more straightfoward, english-threaded bottom bracket, for example, however this particular model came up which I've always had a soft spot for so I went for it. As I said I am a relative noob when it comes to a conversion (been riding geared road bike for the last 5 years) so forgive my probable butchering of termnology, but basically another issue I had forgotten you encounter from 70s bikes is (expressing this as best as I can) the crank arm and chainring being seperate, at least not like later bikes in which you can just interchange chain rings- hopefully the photos on the ad will explain it better than me.
    So basically my question is how bigger deal is this for a conversion? My assumption is that I won't be able to remove the chainring without removing the crank (which is bit irritating as I live in an area which is relatively hilly so wanted to be able to change quickly depending on the terrain) and therefore what am I better off purchasing, just the appropriate chain rings, something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/48-TOOTH-50-122BCD-STRONGLIGHT-TYPE-49-3-32-CHAINRING-BOLTS-/371148506390?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item566a2cc516, or buying a new more modern crank arm?
    cheers, any advice would be appreciated.

  • So basically my question is how bigger deal is this for a conversion?

    It's not. If you must change gears do so by using cogs a tooth or two apart. You're really best off setting it up with a 70" gear and learning to ride that. It'll probably feel quite light to start with.

    When I converted a Peugeot I had faced a similar issue with a one-piece chainset. These are your options if you want to avoid buying a new chainset and bb;

    a/ Buy or build a track rear wheel and (using a spoke key) run round the non-drive side – dishing the wheel until your chainline is good. You can do this in the frame. Being a 120mm hub in 126mm(?) dropouts you can put axle spacers (LBS oddments box will have these) stepping the hub to the drive side, whilst your (now dished) wheel rim runs centrally in the frame. If you've got cone spanners you can put those spacers behind the locknuts on the hub axle.

    b/ Use a 8/9sp 3/32 chain and 3/32 cog. Chainline is less crucial.

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