Integrated headsets - explained

For those who need info on their integrated headset, I spent all day today traipsing around every shop in the area looking for help getting an integrated headset. In theory these are so user-servicable that every shop should carry stocks. In practice it's a little different:

There are three standards for Integrated headsets - Cane Creek, Campagnolo and TH.
The first two are by far the most common.

assuming your steerer tube is 1-18" dia then the most obvious difference between them is the size of the bearings. CC use 41.0mm dia bearings, Campag use 41.8mm dia and TH use 41.5mm.

Second difference between them is the internal and external angles. CC use 36° int and 45° ext., Campag use 45° for both and TH use 36° for both.

None of these are interchangeable. So you need to replace the bearings for ones of the exact same type. If you don't know which you need, the easiest way is to take the bearings out of the frame and off the fork crown. They are a loose fit. The size and type is laser etched onto the outer race of the bearing. If for some reason it is illegible, then you'll have to measure them. When you know what size they are, you'll know what standard they are. Purchase as appropriate. If you install the wrong size, you'll destroy not only the cups but the entire frame, as the cups are usually made of aluminium, which is soft and deforms easily.

Cyclesurgery in East aldgate have a FSA tool to measure the shape and size of your integrated cups. It's also worth noting that evans / cyclesurgery carry NO stock of any integrated headsets at all, even though they all had both super record 11 speed and DA 7900 groupsets in stock.

Note that you don't have to buy a new complete headset. You only need new bearings and they are freely available. Take a look here:

http://www.dotbike.com/ProductsP5544.aspx?A%3d3%26TRACK%3dDPL

Good work, Fared... Useful stuff... Repped... :]

Condor have the metal FSA angle measurer too... they let me draw round it on a piece of card, worked a treat to mull things over at home (you have to cut it out v. carefully).

I fitted a integrated headset for the first time a week ago. (FSA IS-2) Seemed to go OK (fancy headset adjuster without star nut was a PITA though). Trouble is I have a 1-2 mm gap between the fork crown and the headtube. It does'nt feel loose, so I'm tempted to ignore it, ride the bike for a bit and then maybe reinstall after everything has 'worn in'.

Am I being too fussy about the fit?
or am I going to be killed to death?

IMO? yes. even 0.4mm is enough to do damage. for< €20 for headset bearings I wouldn't risk permanently damaging the frame.

I basically hammered on the fork crown; dropped the bottom set of bearings on top; popped the headtube over; dropped in the top bearings (with tightening ring thing); popped the top of the headset on along with the ahead stem (loose); and tighten with the adjuster.

Should I have pressed the baerings in with my DIY headset press?

ED: Just examined headtube area with torch and 'little einsteins magnifying glass'. Turns out that every part the headset is fitted flush. The fork crown race is tapered, causing a notable gap between headtube and fork.

question:

would the internal angle of a lower bearing have to match the angle of the fork crown race, and would the external angle of both the lower and upper bearings have to match the angle of the cups / frame the cartridge bearings sit in?

There's an article that you may find useful

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/headset-standards

Give me a conventional headset every time.

^ Interesting read that.

sticks with conventional threaded hs

As someone once said about the computer industry; "Standards are such a good idea, that's why there's so many of them."

Does anyone know what headset a BMW Gangsta Track V2 takes?
It's a 45x45 but the bearing size thing is confusing me...