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• #4277
ah okay.
I was gonna go for a Halo Clickster I think.
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• #4278
Huh. I did not know that.
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• #4279
Which hub do you have on the back? Just thought, may be one or two issues with threads on weird/fancy hubs (same way some cogs don't fit on all hubs) but most of the common rebranded Formula hubs/Surly hubs etc are fine.
Edit: or maybe that applies to lockrings... my fixed knowledge is fading fast...
For more proof/evidence check this thread from like 5 years ago: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/6994957/
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• #4280
it is one of these so no big deal if I need to buy another cheap hub and rebuild the wheel.
Edit: or maybe that applies to lockrings... my fixed knowledge is fading fast...
sounds about right, I had to buy a new lock ring for this hub because the one I had wouldnt fit.
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• #4281
I figure that if there's enough thread for a track sprocket to transmit torque, you'll be fine with a freewheel. I've ran a clickster on an On-One track hub with no issues, and that was with a tiny chainring that'll put more torque on the threads.
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• #4282
Those are the rebranded formula or whatever so you should be fine :)
Just remember to screw it on so it coasts in the right direction...
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• #4283
Just remember to screw it on so it coasts in the right direction...
hah! good advice.
I figure that if there's enough thread for a track sprocket to transmit torque, you'll be fine with a freewheel. I've ran a clickster on an On-One track hub with no issues, and that was with a tiny chainring that'll put more torque on the threads.
ahh well this fills me with confidence.
Cheers guys.
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• #4284
Any standard track hub can also be used with a single-speed freewheel just by leaving the lockring off. The thread is the same. Sometimes people worry because the hub thread isn't as deep as on a freewheel-specific hub, but this is never a problem with a single-speed freewheel.
http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#flipflop -
• #4285
I thought you could thread enough of a freewheel on a fixed hub using the cog's threads. Am I wrong? I'm sure I've read it on here somewhere.
Sorry just refreshed the page and noted the above comments.
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• #4286
Don't listen to doppelkorn, there is plenty of thread on the fixed part to run a freewheel.
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• #4287
You already know this though as I missed a page too.
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• #4288
Out of interest what's the length of the thread in a freewheel compared to that on a fixed hub?
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• #4289
A bit longer.
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• #4290
I have a tortec ultralite on my pomp. Fits and works great.
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• #4291
Ditto, they're nice little rack for the money.
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• #4292
Rep. If I could.
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• #4295
Don't listen to doppelkorn
Correct
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• #4296
Nah, sorry - I have the wishbone stay version.
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• #4297
Thinking of buying a frameset, would using mini-v brakes give me more/less braking force than my current road calipers?
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• #4298
The engagement is easier when going to slowly without the lag where the pawl is not engaged.
When you faster, hard to tell.
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• #4299
Are you talking about cable ratios or do you just mean how easily you slow down? The mini Vs on my Pompino slow me down far better (ie, the braking is more powerful with much less finger effort) than the calipers on my road bike. Cheap tektro + cheap shimano mini Vs versus modern Shimano 105 calipers.
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• #4300
@lemonade yes just slowing down not the cable pull ratios
My current bike is pissing me off with it not having bosses and things and with winter coming and wanting a really decent pannier a few times recently I'm looking to change it. It's also setup with some ancient style brakes so would need drilling maybe id I wanted to change the stock junk and before throwing money at it building new seems better. It did me a year or so which is like £1500 in train tickets... lol
That's not quite right, the thread is the same (for a fixed cog and freewheel). The freewheel will screw on and about 2/3 of the threads will engage and be more than enough for every day use.
@c0gsucker - you should be fine with the hub you've got already, just stick a bunch of grease on the threads and use a freewheel that isn't made of cheese.