Winter Beater Build

Posted on
Page
of 5
Prev
/ 5
Last Next
  • So got the frame today, already really like it, nice size, little longer than i expected but I'm running risers so it should combat it.

    Got some good pictures uploaded in this album: http://imgur.com/a/LEnya

    Here's a few from the album.

    The welds do look rather clunky so i do think it has been converted. I tested a wheel on the read and the clearance is good, i will be running some 25c tires. It looks good!

    The BB is a little rusted, it still turns but it feels as though it could do with some oil in, gonna try that before i look into taking it apart.

  • This is looking like it's gonna be a sweet beater

  • Looks good - you might end up needing a longer stem though, even if the frame is a big bigger than you thought!

    Oh, and looks like you're in luck with the BB, as the cups look fairly modern - ie it should come out ok. Sealed BBs aren't expensive, so you may as well get a new one before fitting the cranks, as it'll just mean less maintenance in future.

  • Looks like a conversion to me, has the little notch on the down tube for band on shifters. Should still be awesome as long as its done well.

  • Thanks a bunch mate!

    @thross I thought that too, i think they are sealed BB (somewhat resembling skateboard BB) I might look into it, i've never took apart/fitted a BB before so it will be worth looking into that first.

    @loctez I agree, looking at the welds too they're just too large and clunky to be factory, unless they weren't bothered about looks, but most lugged frames look quite nice. At the moment it's just parts i can get my hands on as money is tight currently, but i'm sure it'll have a few phases of looks etc

  • i've never took apart/fitted a BB before so it will be worth looking into that first.

    It's really easy, you just need the correct tools - in your case a standard BB removal tool and a large adjustable spanner. Engage the tool on the non-drive side (adjustable cup) and remove counterclockwise, then engage the tool on the drive side (fixed cup) and remove clockwise. It might be tough to undo at first, but once you get it going they should come out clean. The adjustable cup will come out on its own, the fixed cup will bring the body of the BB with it. Then clean the threads (chase and face if you're fussy, but probably not for this bike) grease the new BB threads, and do the opposite to re fit.

  • I don't have those tools, will Bicycle Links have them? I might as well take this frame down also if I'm doing my brake cable!

  • Yeah they do. Alternatively, I also have them, if you want to borrow them and do it in your own time? Just let me know before I see you on Friday and I can bring them along.

  • That would be great mate! I'll pm you later on to remind you bud!

  • I also have a brand new BB if you're interested

  • I have a spare mate, not sure the sizing however! Will have to look at my chainline and get back to you mate!

  • Will have to look at my chainline

    You'll need a 107mm JIS BB for the Sturmey cranks Ben - so if you don't have the right length just go for a Shimano UN55 and be done with it - they're bombproof and dirt cheap.

  • Thanks folks, i'll have a look - however i cleaned my BB today and revealed this, could anyone shed some light?

  • Also this is my spare BB, am i right in assuming the chainline is 113?


    Ignore dead pixels

  • Looks like you need a Shimano BB tool. 113 is the length of the spindle in mm. http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

  • Thanks for that!

  • The info on the first pic shows the installation direction and the thread pitch (BC 1.37 x24) which is standard English threading. The Shimano BB tool (20 splines) is pretty much the industry standard for cheap sealed BBs, so they're really easy to come by.

    And as Mheldring says, your replacement VR BB is indeed 113mm. 113mm isn't your chainline though, which is confusing, but instead the length of the BB spindle onto which the cranks sit. The chainline can only be determined once the cranks are fully installed, as shown in the Sheldon article. You can kind of ignore that though, as all you really need to know is that the standard chainline for many modern rear track hubs is 42mm, and that the current BB (113mm long) would put the chainline out by about 3mm with the Sturmey cranks, which as I've said, take a 107mm BB. So you just need to find yourself a cheap 107mm BB (I, and almost everyone else, suggest the Shimano UN55) stick the cranks on, and don't worry about it. There is the issue of whether the BB spindle has ISO or JIS tapers, and how that affects the chainline, but that will just compound issues at the moment.

    The 68 on the BB, if you were wondering, is the size of the BB shell that BB will fit in mm - which in this case (and most others) is also English standard. Italian BB shells are 70mm, for example.

    Don't worry if it all sounds like jibberish for now - it becomes really easy once you figure it out. And as I say, you very rarely need to know all of those measurements, but rather just which BB length gives the chainline you need with the crankset you have.

    I'll go through it with you tomorrow if you're still in the dark, as my rambling explanation might make more sense with a bike in front of me!

  • Okay mate, i'll pop out the current BB if you can find the tool and if it ain't right i'll buy a new one!

  • bengreen, do you plan to put mudguards on this bike, if so which ones? btw, like your frameset very much.

  • I dont think so mate, if i do plan to put anything of that sort it would be similar to the asssaver type design!

  • Got my seatpost today thanks to @sacredhart! Also bought some cranks from @thross, thanks again!

    Will update with some pics tomorrow after i go buy some bits, i think the chainline could be okay! But i will have to see what it's like with the wheels! If not, buying one from wiggle!

  • Link to album : http://imgur.com/a/P9s7v

    Here's how she currently sits, without wheels but i plan on sorting that soon. Got some tyres, will be almost ready to ride when i get wheels!

    The cranks i got from @thross, 44T and Sturmy Archer cranks, nothing too fancy, but its winter beater right?

    Gensis saddle i got from @Rikki, I'm not sure how comfy this will be, so i may end up switching it out to a Rolls.

    Also pictured is the seat post i got from @sacredhart as part of his charity sale, looks good on the bike, scratches and all.

    Closer look at the SPD's i'm running, I'm pretty sure these are the type you can unclip backwards from, so these may get replaced.

    So far it's going quite well i feel, the clearances are pretty good, gonna be running 25c tyres so won't have any issues. Getting pretty excited about being able to ride this frame, it feels quite stiff, but we will see!

  • Looking good man. I think you'll end up wanting your other Ribble quill on it eventually, but see how it goes. How long 'til you have the wheels? Also, I'd be tempted to try the Genesis saddle if it disagrees with you.

  • I'm gonna try the saddle yeah, but i have a feeling it might not! Not gonna look for another saddle until i have come to that conclusion! No idea on the wheels just yet! Hopefully soon!

  • Looking good

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Winter Beater Build

Posted by Avatar for bengreen @bengreen

Actions