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• #2102
Thanks, I really like it. Was a leftover accident from covering the whole frame in tape once
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• #2103
Just a quick one, on brand new Pre Cursas, are the decals removable? cheers!
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• #2104
Terrible camera, but this is mine. Will be getting a Kagero or Mash to transplant as the Dolan is a (little) small, so expect to see the frame on here :)
Very happy with how it turned out though
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• #2105
very nice! making me want some omnoms for mine even more!
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• #2106
Will be getting a Kagero or Mash to transplant as the Dolan is a (little) small, so expect to see the frame on here :)
What size is it?
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• #2107
looks like a 54 maybe 52
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• #2108
Good eyes, 54!
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• #2109
Certainly looks like a 54 to me. Same length head tube as mine:
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• #2110
I thought it looked too long for me, but hoped it was a camera trick. I think I need the 50 x 53 with a 70mm stem (5ft6 with short legs) but will see what the coach says at LVV in a couple of weeks.
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• #2111
PC's are generally very long and low due to steep headtube. Almost everyone that gets them is surprised by suddenly needing a chode stem.
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• #2112
^ This
Chode stem phase while back adjusted was annoying. So PCs have long reach and short stack predominantly because of the headtube angle?
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• #2113
Do Pre Cursa frames have rear mudguard eyelets?
I can't find the information on the Dolan site, and some photos appear to show a hole and others don't...
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• #2114
Mine's
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• #2115
Push the saddle back a bit more and see how it feel.
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• #2116
PC's are generally very long and low due to steep headtube.
Seat tube rather, they tend to be around 75 degrees, headtube have little effect in reach, apart from handling.
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• #2117
Does anyone have the stack and reach measurements for a 52cm PC please?
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• #2119
Thanks Ed
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• #2120
Seat tube rather, they tend to be around 75 degrees, headtube have little effect in reach, apart from handling.
Interesting. So in effect, running an inline post would make a massive change in terms of positioning?
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• #2121
It will put you in a very far forward position that make it feel like you got a lots of body weight on the handlebar, it will also feel like you don't quite 'rest' on the saddle.
Fine for town riding and the like, but very noticeable on a longer ride.
I recommend setback for those kind of bicycle, unless you're going for the slavery.
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• #2122
Just got a track champ that had a stuck wing seatpost. That came out fairly easily but the seattube really does seem tight. I tried another post I there and it was a struggle to get out. Has anyone noticed a similar thing? I might try and get it reamed/cleaned up but I don't know if it's just an issue with trsck champs generally.
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• #2123
^just tried mine for peace of mind having not greased in ages. Seems fine to me. May well be quite specific to the one you purchased. IIRC yours may well be the one that was on gumtree then ebay, the seat post clamp area looked a bit rough...previous owner may have bodged and then deformed it. Track champs are reknowned for hairline cracks in the same area.
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• #2124
Very possibly. I took the bolt out of the clamp and it was a bit manky, bit of oxidisation and that. I might just back the paint off a bit to check for a crack as I've seen photos of others that that's happened to. In this case I think it might just have had grease used or something which has led to bonding. I'll give it a good clean out and have a go with another post.
£120 with a messenger crankset seems alright to me though! Frame itself is in good nick, looks better than it did in the photos. Fingers crossed for no seat clamp cracks...
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• #2125
A ha! Tried a different post and a spray of wd40 (will clean out before installing carbon) and all seems well.
At the other end of the bike, the dropouts are a bit mashed and getting a wheel in was a laborious process. Is that a common thing? I guess I can just file them back a bit to make it smoother, no?
Just electrical tape, think it suits the bike tho