How To Lock Your Bike

Brake calliper will be below the chainstays.

That's what I suspected but I cannot see it. Maybe I should get an eye test.

http://www.bikeradar.com/commuting/gear/article/buyers-guide-to-bike-locks-video-20408/?CPN=RSS&SOURCE=BRGENHOME

Don’t leave a commuting lock on railings or bike racks – thieves can practise on it when you’re not around and break it when your bike’s in it

this is a little toward the scaremongering side of advice I feel

It makes sense though, if you leave your expensive bike locked up in the same place everyday and somebody notices that you've left your lock there overnight, it wouldn't be too hard to damage it without the owner noticing so that they could steal the bike later on.

I agree.

people have had chains with covers broken when there's no bike there, ziptie it so it's still all in one piece then put the cover back on, all the thief needs to do is give the lock a hard tug which'd take a couple of second maybe and done.

^ not that I leave my locks anywhere but this is not something I had considered before today. ta.

This

This brings me out in sweaty hives.

Best way to stop people making off with stem/seatpost?? Also anything you can do to stop people trying to nick your wheels (15mm nuts, like a cover or something)

Sorry but I've just got to London from NZ (where I use what is basically a noodle to lock my bike)

atomic22. chain around tt and saddle rails. atomic22.

or superglue and ball beaarings if you never change set-up/ if beater.

Rub your shit all over the stem and seatpost.

Does that actually work? Some of these thieves are pretty scummy..

Yeah don't rub too much shit on it or it's basically giving them a free dinner too.

Watching the latest Cycle Show on ITV4 the other night, and they had a feature about locks, and had their 'Rent-a-thief' expert on hand to try out the locks on the market (Krypto Mini Fagh being the obvious winner). However, he gave a tip that the D-lock should be as low to the ground as possible, whereas I've heard previously that it's best to have the lock as high as possible so there's less to lever the bolt-croppers against. If I didn't know any better, I'd think it was a cynical attempt by thief-in-residence to make his thieving life easier in future.

I saw this as well, but didn't interpret his comments that way. I understood him to say lower down, not on the top tube and to fill as much of the lock as possible.

Although the Fagh was the winner it still didn't put up with much abuse, although it was with a grinder. The basic message is if your bike is wanted badly enough it's easy to steal no matter what you do.

http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=001645

Seen this? Looks like it's got a dead conjoined twin.

Looks like they're trying to put Fabric Horse, Restrap, et al out of business.

How are they trying to put Restrap et al out of business?

What is the use of that supposed to be then??? You can't get both wheels in it...

Guess the main U-part is for the frame and the mini-U is for the front/rear wheel.

Don't know why it's in the 'messenger' series, it'd be too fiddly and time consuming for us to use them.

Then you might as well have a normal sized lock which would fit better to frame mounts/bags, and could have thicker steel so be safer.

Silliness.

To me that new Kryptonite looks like it might be an attempt to solve the problem of the mini being too short to fit around more than just the frame when locking to some of the (absurdly oversized) tubular Sheffield racks out there- this way, the lock goes, perhaps, around seat tube and rack, and the second shackle goes through the rear wheel. That way, you've got everything locked up, but there aren't the gaps you get with a "normal" size lock.

Impressed by these locking skillz...

Recent purchases from http://www.bicyclebolts.com/
Hardly impregnable, but hopefully more secure than the next guy.

^ that looks like a good idea on the seatpost, reckon stem is overkill. looks quite cool tho!

Believe me it's not overkill.

That bolt prevent the entire front end of your bike to disappear, fork, wheel, part of headset, handlebar, probably £200 worth (if it's a carbon fork).