Any question answered...

If you wish to ride on track with your bike, I would personally advise a 50t on front and play with the rear for the street.

This is for my track bike, so street use isn't an issue. I've ridden 50x16 on track for the last 2 years, but keep on wondering if I should go for 50x15 now I'm sticking with the faster pacelines. However, given that I'm still keeping up with everyone except the proper sprint specialists, albeit spinning pretty fast, I think I'll stick with 50x16 for now.

Went for a bike fitting the other day, I am very inflexible as it turns out. Tried riding my other bike today and the front end feels really really low. I dont have enough adjustment in the stem to get it high enough so I'm looking for another one. Is there a site where I can input my measurements from the bike fitting and see what frames would fit?

old reply: 200m, wouldn't go higher then 50x15 myself.

Just saw that reply. The chain won't be a serious issue still. If you can keep up, that's good. If you are up with those standards, it might be wise to just test what feels right. What is right for me isn't right for you. Different speciality's require different gearrings anyway.

Won't the rear wheel's position depend on the gear you're running?

If you're a proper aero-weenie, you find the optimal wheel position then magic gear to get the ratio you want with the wheel position you need.

1R8 is the Tester recommended racing chain, 1Z1 is for training

1Z1 will be fine for track racing, the 1R8 is just more tarty but less corrosion resistant and more expensive. Because the 1R8 is a lot stiffer, I'd expect it to be a bit more efficient at high chain tension because the roller should land on the tooth more precisely, but we're talking very small fractions of the total power loss, and that total is only about 1.5% of input power for a clean and properly lubricated chain at typical cycling power and drivetrain configuration.

• the 1z1 has that nasty galvanized finish
  

It's only nasty to look at. Functionally, it's brilliant; resists corrosion, runs smooth and the galvanised ones seem much quieter than anything else.

It was the quietness that sold it to me. Particularly after having used a SRAM PC1. Anyway, I quite like the finish.

I've got one on my polo bike, someone asked why I'd got a white chain. :-/

#csb

Cock. Much as I like the finish on the 1Z1, it doesn't match that chainset. Z1 Inox ordered to replace it.

Z1 is bushingless, wouldn't have one near any of my fixed bikes. If you want shiny, get a 1R8

Not that I could find. My bike fitter told me the geo I needed (or the key aspects) and I just trawled a load of sites to find one that suited me.

I'll drop my fitter an email then, I may have been premature in my thought of a new bike. Need to find a big spirit level and double check everything first.

So I understand traditional > bushingless on fixed gear bikes?
Why is that?

Less lateral flex in the chain means derailment is less likely + something to do with friction.

Widgets have arrived. Drop me a PM with your address and I'll pop them in the post.

Less likely to 'round out' a Torx bolt. Used for high torque places.

I need to convert WMV to MPG. Can anyone suggest a free software that will do it that's not full of malware, spyware and other shit?

Possibly this. Not 100% sure if it outputs as MPG though http://www.dvdvideosoft.com/products/dvd/Free-DVD-Video-Converter.htm

Thanks. Doesn't mention WMV or MPG though.

I believe VLC player has the option to convert.

feck!
so just seen i'm missing 2 chainring bolts, with the other three loose as.
these. is it simply a lack torque?

Incorrect torque, and were they properly greased?

multi-purpose grease. i guess must have been under-torqued then...?
£15 replacement but lucky nothing (i think) damaged.

Ffmpeg
Or winff (which uses ffmpeg but uses a GUI)

Maybe motorbike leather repairers?

Stan the leatherman near cambridge heath?