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  • Forward facing horizontal dropouts work slightly better than track ends with full 'guards.

    Lots of 90s steel touring frames have these and adjusting screws (if you get a good one) for fast flat-fixes. The same frames don't always have eyelets but they'll usually fit 28mm tyres and 'guards. Rear spacing will be 130mm, so a couple of spacers on a track hub (behind the locknuts so they stay on when the wheel comes out).

    Get your head around the above and you have a sea of beautiful frames with nice tubing and paint to choose from. You might have to put up with a quill stem or use a converter but they're the most practical frames you can own. Race cross or cross a continent, not a problem! A modern equivalent would be a Cross Check or a Long Haul Trucker. Both are burly as hell, a bit overbuilt for me.

  • I would not be averse to doing this but these frames tend to have low bottom brackets! I'd prefer something that's been designed as a fixed gear ride...

  • Mudgards-riding does sound like a non-leaner-type - prejudice aside.

  • That's a good point.

    I've never once had a problem with a road (not touring) frame and proper pedals (atacs, keos etc) and 165mm cranks. I crashed that bike in so may ways I would have found that issue if it existed. That bike had a BB height lower than a track bike. Tourers ... perhaps a different story. Long Haul Truckers certainly do have low BBs. A Cross Check would be fine.

  • Meh, not a problem unless you use pedals design for clown shoes.

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