Adhesive

good feedback Moog, thank you

@rik, yeh i was thinking of PL premium

oh wait im thinking of PL premium i think . . . that stuff is incredible strong. . .

See ^ ;) reading fail haha

+1 Araldite. It's holding up various bits of the house very nicely.

araldite is the best. always has been as far as i know.

DREDGE:

I'm seriously considering glueing my seatpost clamp back together for various reasons.

A) Cheap Cheap
B) I know no aluminium welders up where I am
C) Easiest option
D) If I don't do anything the frame will just sit doing nowt.

I have the other half of the clamp that is missing and the bolt used for tightening. - Note - it isn't deformed in any way, it's just a bit of a dirty jagged crack, everything fits back together very easily.

I was wondering if anyone had any kind of experience of using adhesive like JB Weld or Araldite for this kind of fix/bodge? My biggest worry would be for it to fail once I applied any kind of force on the clamp.

Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.

Bern

just get a quill - style? seatpost?

I Never even knew these existed - will look into it.

Turns out they are both expensive and rare :(

Will keep looking mind, any more clue on the glue from anyone else?

put the seatpost in with no grease, expose to shit conditions until it seizes in place, voila! fancy ISP frame.

No glue is going to fix that. Ghetto solution, drill thru the seat tube and seat post, insert nut and bolt.

put the seatpost in with no grease, expose to shit conditions until it seizes in place, voila! fancy ISP frame.

Definately the cheapest option, bike has already endured a scottish winter with no seizing of post to frame, think I'm onto a loser :(

No glue is going to fix that. Ghetto solution, drill thru the seat tube and seat post, insert nut and bolt.

have definately thought about this, quite a bit!

Like Freezing says, no glue is going to fix that. From the integrated clamp though, it looks like a steel frame [just had a second look, it's definitely steel]. Find someone who can TIG weld, or at a push MIG would do. You'll have to ream the seat tube out after though.

You could also try grinding what you've got left flat and using a separate, external, seat post clamp, found on most aluminium frames.

Isn't it an alu lug on a carbon tubed frame? So any real fiddling is going to fuck everything up :(

Actually yeah, you're right. It's one of the early Treks with carbon main tubes and an aluminium rear triangle.

I'd be very very weary of welding it. Introducing extreme heat into 20 year old bonded joints is not a great idea. Bolt through the lug, or a furniture fixing to make it a little neater, would do the job. (Google the insert company).

JBweld not strong enough?

(never used but heard of people using it for pretty sketchy stuff and it holding up...)

You could also try grinding what you've got left flat and using a separate, external, seat post clamp, found on most aluminium frames.

this sounds good, but there isn't space for a clamp

Stuff a few train tickets down the side of the seatpost to wedge it in tight and then get some cable ties and pull them tight around the clamp area. Bob is now your uncle.

I remember seeing a tutorial on how to make a quill seat post in ride BMX magazine, and also winter tires with screw studs.

Maybe speak to a fame builder about modifying an existing seat post, and they can grind the un-needed threads of the lug?

Isn't it an alu lug on a carbon tubed frame? So any real fiddling is going to fuck everything up :(

This

JBweld not strong enough?

(never used but heard of people using it for pretty sketchy stuff and it holding up...)

Seriously considering being a guinnee pig for this, have even tweeted them and they seem mighty confident.

this sounds good, but there isn't space for a clamp

Had thought this as well, just not enough space :(

^^ Considering this as well Dogs!

rebuild it with chemical metal, which i guess is jb weld. i use it on my car, tough ass stuff. ideal for this situation imo

JB Weld is on and curing, pics to follow, time will tell I expect!

Epoxy will fail as soon as any torque's applied to the nut - it won't work.
Not an easy one to fix.
I'd look at chopping it all off and using a band clamp, if there's room enough.
otherwise, an expensive TIG repair.