Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • I wasn't overly pleased with the Pave' 24 on TB 25, but if you are happy... Sounds like you're up to a winner then...

  • I guess I'll go 24mm then .. out of curiosity what are wide tubular rims out there? Buy-able in the UK ..

  • Velocity Major Tom... mostly for cyclocross, but will take 25 mm tubs

  • What makes it CX specific?

  • Wide enough to glue a 32 + mm tub with enough surface to avoid it rolling off?

  • I've got 27mm vittoria paves on standard width tub rims at the moment, and they're great!
    shedloads of pro teams running 25mm tubs and up on std rims, and they seem to be ok too.

  • I've got 27mm vittoria paves on standard width tub rims at the moment, and they're great!
    shedloads of pro teams running 25mm tubs and up on std rims, and they seem to be ok too.

    Yes, but there is no definition of "standard".
    For example my Nemesis are 21 mm wide and fit a 27 mm Pave' like a glove... most modern carbon tubular rims used by PRO teams are 25 mm wide or even more....
    the Kinlin TB 25 are only 18.5 mm wide and having glued a few tyres on them, I'd say they are optimised for 21 to 23 mm tubulars

  • Would you generally recommend a 25mm wide rim bed (over a 23mm) for a 25mm tyre (say Conti Competition)?

    I appreciate it may depend on the particular rim.

  • Would you generally recommend a 25mm wide rim bed (over a 23mm) for a 25mm tyre (say Conti Competition)?

    I appreciate it may depend on the particular rim.

    It's not so simple. It's not about the width only, but the way the rim is curved in the bed. I find Ambrosio Nemesis is perfect, it can take a wide range of tubular tyres, from 22 all the way to 32 mm and they all sit very well. Other rims are far less versatile.
    Generally speaking most rims on the market will take a 25 no problem, the TB 25 is a particularly narrow one with a curvature which is not the best.

  • Thanks.

  • 5 weeks of production time for the WU6C 2015 rim with custom drilling

    Your rims will be ready in the next week.

    Have a good day.
    Yours faithfully,
    Jason

  • How much did they end up costing Thuekr?

  • A while back I showed some photos of my tensiometer made by a guy called Filip who uses the design by Jobst Brandt (which is open to use by anyone), and a few of you were interested.

    Would any one have a link to the details of the Jobst Brandt gauge? I've had a look myself and found a few links, but they're all dead.

    I've got a spare DTI in my drawer and access to some dirt cheap CNC machining, so it almost seems rude not to..

  • Check in the back of his book.

  • I've built two sets of wheels recently and in each wheel have placed a coloured aluminium nipple either side of the valve hole. Whilst this servers no real purpose other than to highlight the valve hole I quite like it. However I went to true a year old wheel and could not get one of the aluminium nipples to budge. It was well lubed when built and before truing but is ridden in all weather and crud.

    Are coloured brass nipples available? I can't seem to locate any.

    On a related note does anyone now of a supplier that sells coloured DT Swiss Competition spokes ie not silver or black?

  • Yes, but there is no definition of "standard".

    I was referring to 20/21mm rims as 'standard' width. While zipp and shimano are wider, campagnolo and mavic rims are still this width.

  • ^^ These German sites do white and red DT spokes, which the only other colours DT do, and even with the €6+ shipping fee it's still usually much cheaper (when buying 30+) than buying from any UK supplier - Bike24, HiBike

    I might be wrong, but I don't think brass nipples come in anything other than black or silver.

  • UniCycleUK can also be good for various colours, sizes, and lengths of nipples, odd spoke lengths and gauges, or parts some times harder to find in smaller quantities.

  • Excellent thanks a lot. Tempted by a unicycle now as well!

    In instances where only even lengths are available (Bike24, Rose Bikes for example) and I want 289.1 mm should I round down or will that leave me with spoke threads visible above the nipple?

  • Always round down, you don't want to bottom out the threads.

  • I've just received my Ambrosia Excellight rim which looks a really nice rim except I can see daylight through the braking surface where the rim is joined.

    I assume this is not normal/expected. The Mavic and Exal rims I've used have never been like this.

  • Excellites are welded then machined, you shouldn't even be able to see the join on the brake track

  • That's what I suspected. Annoying it'll have to go back delaying my wheel build. Should have stuck with Open Pros, although I wasn't happy with the millage gained from my last rim, so thought I'd try something new.

  • That's what I suspected. Annoying it'll have to go back delaying my wheel build. Should have stuck with Open Pros, although I wasn't happy with the millage gained from my last rim, so thought I'd try something new.

    Excellight are unlikely to give you more mileage. If it's mileage you want, then try Ambrosio Evolution or Excellence

  • The Excellight was for a road bike and where I wanted a relatively low mass set of wheels and required a 28 hole rim to match the front hub. After experimenting with this I planned to use one of the two you suggest for my commuter.

    Is either better than the other?

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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