Dalsnibba

2K Grey primer with 2k gloss lacquer over the top would look pretty cool.
Keeping the matt finish of the primer looking good would be a PITA.

Needs the lacquer to seal the circuits, also.

Does using the frame as a conductor lead to potential rusting issues? I know that steel boats are fitted with sacrificial anodes to help reduce the rusting on the hull which can be made worse if there is a electrical current passing through the hull.

I guess the current involved is very low so this doesn't effect you?

The new version won't use the frame as a conductor - so any concern in that area should hopefully be allayed.

3d printing?

Yep

Will you actually have to pry it open to fit onto the frame after cutting it?

I doubt he's going to slide them over the tubes prior to brazing, Ed.

I was wondering how much stress it can take when prying open.

They need cutting down the centre of the section which the bolt goes into, for which I need a very, very narrow saw- any and all suggestions for where to source said saw welcome.

The material used is very springy, it should happily open to the diameter of the tube and snap back.

That's the theory anyway - and why my bike is the prototype test-mule.

They need cutting down the centre of the section which the bolt goes into, for which I need a very, very narrow saw- any and all suggestions for where to source said saw welcome.

The material used is very springy, it should happily open to the diameter of the tube and snap back.

That's the theory anyway - and why my bike is the prototype test-mule.

maybe a jeweller? they use very thin files and probably saw blades - failing that a lazer.

I have a band saw with a thin-ish blade or a japanese handsaw that is thiner (from memory the kerf is <1mm)

I don't know if I've missed something, but what are the plastic bits for?

Moog could I borrow the handsaw?

Sirbkealot- these are to connect the e-tube wires onto the circuits in the paint.

Bit more practical than soldering onto the frame.

Sure, I should be home most week nights after 7. I think you've got my number? Text me when you want to drop by.

Only distantly relevant but (i think it's) this review says that Tri rig prefer injection moulded plastics for the purpose of clipping things onto pipes. They say that often 3d printed equivalents are brittle. Fingers crossed these parts work out but injection moulding could be an alternative?

Sure- this is a prototype, a test mule to see what works and what doesn't.

If it needs changing we'll do so, test again.

A razor saw is best for cutting finely into SLS (thinner than a jap saw, with much finer teeth). Sometimes also refered to as a zona saw, or a gents saw. Don't use a band saw or any powered blade, as it will just melt the nylon, and make a big mess.

The split line should be on the CAD and printed in the part, modding SLS parts neatly is a very tricky job.

Is there anywhere in the centre of London that would have these for walk-off-the-street purchase, or are they speciality model making kit?

http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Item/Razor-saw-fine-cut/ITM6341

The store is by Tower Hill.... Its a very weird place, but good for specialist hand tools.
They have other razor saws with variations of blades if you need to cut deeper than 11mm. This one will prolly give the finest cut though....

that place is rad

It's really not.

So many tiny trees though.

Just because it's your job, sandy...

It's not though, is it.