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  • Branwen, I think that might be on the Pitbull.

    The Brute has raised holes.

  • o rly?

  • I've not seen that attachment before on the Brute. First time I've seen it.

    But my comment stands - cutting off protection then saying it's a weak lock, is very strange to me.

  • Are people talking about the yellow plastic on the shackle or the lock section that can be cut away?

  • Hench lock
    http://www.bikeradar.com/commuting/news/article/student-creates-worlds-most-cut-proof-bike-lock-41252/
    Has this been discussed? Looks pretty nifty. Want to see independent destructive test though.

  • I'm after a new lock.

    Right now I have an Evo Mini 7, weighting 1.6 kg, and I'm used to carry it around.

    New bike, new lock, so I went through the list of the recommended ones, and I'm surprised to see this one:

    Asakiltt Shackle Lock [Mod.31-2166][16mm?] () £16.99
    http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Asaklitt-Shackle-Lock/Pr312166000

    At a 1/4 of the price of the Fahgettaboudit Mini, and almost 0.5 kg lighter.

    Surprisingly a search for Asakiltt does not return results in the forum.
    Is that the primary lock of any of you?

    Thanks.

  • I'm always getting the name of it wrong but it looks like the knock off magnum that many places sell. There's no way it will count as a decent primary lock for this thread, and it won't even come close to the security of the fagh mini, but if you go and look at it you can decide for yourself whether the thickness of the steel corresponds enough to the likely risk. At that price I'm guessing the shackle is 12-14mm thick.

  • I'm always getting the name of it wrong but it looks like the knock off magnum that many places sell. There's no way it will count as a decent primary lock for this thread, and it won't even come close to the security of the fagh mini, but if you go and look at it you can decide for yourself whether the thickness of the steel corresponds enough to the likely risk. At that price I'm guessing the shackle is 12-14mm thick.

    That's what I thought, but it is listed in the first post of this thread, second on the list! Hence my surprise.

  • Hmm. Well I'm not aware of any report here on its characteristics and there's no statement on shackle material/diameter on the Clas Ohlson site... and it's inexplicably under 18/19mm? Surely that's not true.

    It looks no different to the oxford magnum clones/copies/rebadge. The real thing is 16mm which if true here makes it a decent lock. But wouldn't buy without looking.

  • I have one as my main outside of London lock. It feels nowhere near as secure as my fahgedaboudit, the flat part of the D feels very plasticy & the bit that inserts into the body is much thinner.

    But then it was cheap and does seem to do the job. Its probably a step down from the fahg but pretty equal to the others on that step (IMO).

  • Where do these come in? I picked up 2 of them and have been using them for a few months now but my current bike is a heap of shit so it's not worth stealing anyway. Don't want to get a new bike and have it instantly vanish.

    http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-Safety-and-Security/Locks/U-locks/U-mini-40
    http://www.decathlon.co.uk/u-mini-bike-lock-yellow-id_8203082.html

  • Eh there was some confusion in either this thread or secondary locks about the two models, apparently some people found one smaller than the other, but the abus website implies it's only a colour difference. Do you have both colours? Are they identical?

    In any case at 14mm as stated there they'll be classed as secondary locks by the criteria here, as they are hand bolt-croppable, but in fairness probably better than what lots of people use for primary. Depending on worth of your new bike and risk of locking you might upgrade one to 16-18mm, or that fancy square section abus.

  • Eh there was some confusion in either this thread or secondary locks about the two models, apparently some people found one smaller than the other, but the abus website implies it's only a colour difference. Do you have both colours? Are they identical?

    In any case at 14mm as stated there they'll be classed as secondary locks by the criteria here, as they are hand bolt-croppable, but in fairness probably better than what lots of people use for primary. Depending on worth of your new bike and risk of locking you might upgrade one to 16-18mm, or that fancy square section abus.

    Both yellow and both marked "40/130HB140" on the ends, I looked in/at evans and some other places for the red ones at the time and they are packaged identical and seem to be identical?

    The lock engages on both ends of the U part and that is shaped to not twist so would need to cut it twice, does that effect bolt croppers?

    Bikes aren't super valuable atm, run down mtb and beaters but whenever I can get the gf to say ok to taking up more space will be buying a dolan precursa to build up. Have to be honest tho anything that has had a clean will have some magpie scrote after it.

  • The Abus u-mini yellow and red are identical only the colours are different.

    The shackle is double bolted i.e. it needs two cuts to get through.

  • At one time the yellow was given a better rating (gold) by Sold Secure. I'm not sure if that is still the case or why this was.

  • Both yellow and both marked "40/130HB140" on the ends, I looked in/at evans and some other places for the red ones at the time and they are packaged identical and seem to be identical?

    The lock engages on both ends of the U part and that is shaped to not twist so would need to cut it twice, does that effect bolt croppers?

    Bikes aren't super valuable atm, run down mtb and beaters but whenever I can get the gf to say ok to taking up more space will be buying a dolan precursa to build up. Have to be honest tho anything that has had a clean will have some magpie scrote after it.

    As wapiti said, the non-round section is useful since it's two cuts and twice the hassle/time/chance of getting caught for thieves.

    You're right and anything with a known brand (so the big names) or hipster tax (dolan, 531, the like) will be especially targeted

  • Abus Granit X-Plus 54 230mm with EaZyKF is less than £60 on Amazon at the moment
    I prefer the 230mm to the 300mm to give less space for jacks etc. This lock combined with PitLocks, solder in Allen heads and Evolution Mini as secondary has kept my bike and all it's bits mine all over London.

    EaZyKF is my favourite bracket for this - not that I've tried the others, but compared to some Kryptonite crappy brackets I've had this is very good and offers versatile mounting options.

    There's a replacement model for this lock - the 'Granit X-Plus 540'.

    Looking at the ABUS website the only difference is the word 'hardened'. See 54 vs 540 . Both same weight and same security rating (15). Thoughts?

    UPDATE: £56.90 inc P&P from 'faguru' seller on Amazon UK !!

  • How easy is it to remove the solder from Allen heads when required? Also does it stick easy? Its a suggestion I've not heard of before.

    I'd be a bit nervous doing this near carbon parts due to heat conduction possibly damaging the goo used in assembling the carbon sheets.

  • UPDATE: I've seen this blurb on Wiggle and Amazon "*The Sold Secure Gold rated Granit X-Plus 540 replaces the legendary X-Plus 54 with a more stylish look while retaining its safety features."
    *
    Oh, and here's a trippy video tutorial on the EaZyKF bracket, from Abus*.
    *

  • **Cranky:
    **
    I've applied and removed it from several heads and all fine. Mine is a very nice but (intentionally) tatty Reynolds mountain bike from the late 90s so the odd bit solder resin doesn't upset me. Might think twice on carbon parts. As several friends have has their bikes picked for parts in East London I want to keep my Deore XT shifters. I wouldn't do it on my drive train as they're parts I may need to get at if I'm in need of a quick fix in the middle of nowhere.

    I recently removed some solder after it being in there for 3 years and 7000 miles. Took a lot of heating up (bike acts as heat sink) but once soft and warm some very gentle action with a small drill and pilot bit got it out easily - but not too easily.

    I own a soldering iron so it was easy to try. Mine is for electronics and only 25w but I'd recommend a beefier one if using it solely for this purpose. And use solder with resin as it helps it bond to the alloy.

    Rogue drips of solder will do less damage than super glue/acetone (which is the alternative) I reckon.

  • ^ thanks for the response; very useful info
    I agree with regard solvent and superglue which will possibly also damage carbon parts. My comment about carbon was just that my bike's all alloy and steel. A solder sucker may help with the removal. I'll borrow an iron from work and pack some bolt heads tomorrow. It must be easier than removing superglue.

    Thanks.

  • CRANKY

    I've got a solder sucker but when melting the solder in the bolts the solder never actually gets fluid, just soft. A bradawl would be a useful tool for prizing out the soft blob! Good luck with it. Oh, and i did the bolt where my seatpost joins the saddle rails/clamp too.

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Locks that work

Posted by Avatar for GA2G @GA2G

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