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• #52
Should work, is the cup on the other side off? If you can brace the bb shell on something with a hole in the middle or against a vice then get your favourite smasher and smash it to fuck.
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• #53
copy that. Smash...to fuck.
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• #54
woo! just had a few strikes and the axle is dislodging, gonna clear the debris but so far so good :] will post pics when its all clear
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• #55
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• #56
Is it plastic or metal?
There is a sheldon trick to remove stuck BB cups with a big bolt and washers http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
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• #57
its metal but there is absolutely no teeth for anything to lock onto - ill have a look at the sheldonbrown technique if all else fails, the bolt looks like it could be the size of the axle!
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• #58
Remove hacksaw blade, put through BB, reattach hacksaw, cut carefully.
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• #59
I suggest a cold chisel. This is a locking ring for a cartridge BB, rather than a hardened cup for loose bearings?
Maybe try to fold in the ring to get it to collapse.
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• #60
Remove hacksaw blade, put through BB, reattach hacksaw, cut carefully.
trying not to damage the threads on the bb, try an do this to two areas and then the body should collapse in with a bit of hammering carefully not to damage the face or bb thread. I'd cheat and use a jigsaw carefully.
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• #61
Yup, carefully, carefully smashy monkey.
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• #62
I suggest a cold chisel. This is a locking ring for a cartridge BB, rather than a hardened cup for loose bearings?
Maybe try to fold in the ring to get it to collapse.
thats what i would do. fold it in, any old man engineer would do the same. they know how to get shit done.
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• #63
Easiest way; bit of heat and thin lube.
Then bash out with a drift or chisel and a FBH, anti-clockwise. -
• #64
Plenty of smashing is always important.
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• #65
Easiest way; bit of heat and thin lube.
Then bash out with a drift or chisel and a FBH, anti-clockwise.Heat is not a great idea as it could damage the paint finish Carefully as you can damage the bb thread or BB face
Plenty of smashing is always important.
Are you the kind of person that everything can be a hammer?
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• #66
I prefer the term smasher.
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• #67
You have been trying to turn it the right way, yes? Different direction depending on whether it's English or Italian thread ...
Can't really tell from your pic, but from the damage done to the teeth it looks as though you might have been trying to turn it anti-clockwise, which would loosen an Ita drive-side cup but tighten a BSA one.
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• #68
Tip to remove any bearing or BB (Only for steel frame):
You destroy the bearing and get everything out of it. It already reduce the force on the outside cage of the bearing/BB. Then you weld (on the surface with a very low setting on the tig, don't go deep) inside the cage to create a drop of metal.
Once the welding done, don't wait and through water to the welding, you will hear the metal moving. To finish, with a hammer and a small cold chisel, you carefully push the right way to remove it. If the bearing is press fitted, you create a drop on both side and from the other side of the bearing, hammer slowly on each drop one after the other.
If you do that properly, it work like a charm with almost no effort.
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• #69
right then, hacksaw'd the cup as per instructions, didn't go all the way and am going to chisel the rest of it out on the weekend and fold the ring :] will post pics when done!
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• #70
Tip to remove any bearing or BB (Only for steel frame):
You destroy the bearing and get everything out of it. It already reduce the force on the outside cage of the bearing/BB. Then you weld (on the surface with a very low setting on the tig, don't go deep) inside the cage to create a drop of metal.
Once the welding done, don't wait and through water to the welding, you will hear the metal moving. To finish, with a hammer and a small cold chisel, you carefully push the right way to remove it. If the bearing is press fitted, you create a drop on both side and from the other side of the bearing, hammer slowly on each drop one after the other.
If you do that properly, it work like a charm with almost no effort.
I've done that and it works. For car wheel bearings, like your photo, otherwise needing a 20T press to remove. Not for bikes...
For steel BB cups, just weld on a long bar. Or for DS BSA threaded, a big nut and washer has never fail me yet.
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• #71
Tip to remove any bearing or BB (Only for steel frame):
You destroy the bearing and get everything out of it. It already reduce the force on the outside cage of the bearing/BB. Then you weld (on the surface with a very low setting on the tig, don't go deep) inside the cage to create a drop of metal.
Once the welding done, don't wait and through water to the welding, you will hear the metal moving. To finish, with a hammer and a small cold chisel, you carefully push the right way to remove it. If the bearing is press fitted, you create a drop on both side and from the other side of the bearing, hammer slowly on each drop one after the other.
If you do that properly, it work like a charm with almost no effort.
The reason that works on wheel bearings is that bearing faces are hardened, so the heat is localized so more of a shock (localized heating) be careful tho as the bearing outer can shatter. Citroen BX rear arm bearing replacement.
I've done that and it works. For car wheel bearings, like your photo, otherwise needing a 20T press to remove. Not for bikes...
For steel BB cups, just weld on a long bar. Or for DS BSA threaded, a big nut and washer has never fail me yet.
I go with the weld something to the cups.
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• #72
I've done that and it works. For car wheel bearings, like your photo, otherwise needing a 20T press to remove. Not for bikes...
For steel BB cups, just weld on a long bar. Or for DS BSA threaded, a big nut and washer has never fail me yet.
Done it on my Old Peugeot BB and it worked like a charm, tig power at the minimum you just add metal rather than melting existing one, you just need few drop around
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• #73
update!
seized BB went from this
then followed advice to smash out the axle
(make sure the cup on the other side is off)
then got a hammer & cold chisel and started tapping (very slowly and carefully)
from the other side, lifting the cup away from the frame. Did this bit by bit over a week
took some time and mega patience, but it all paid off!
Seriously the frame was heading for the skip, cannot thank you guys enough especially snottyotter and nneil :)) bigup yoself!
I would never have thought of that - will try it and let you know how it goes!