Current Projects chat and miscellany

Why didn't you then^? I would have.

Rideable condition. All i need to try and do now is make it look nice.

Cut the steerer, crimp the cables, add a bottle cage and ride.

Looks like a sound bike.

Are those the original forks? I really like it, other than the shape of the bars.

BB30: I know they're prone to certain issues, but what really concerns me is that the guy who installed it did a pretty brutal bodge job. Didn't fit the clips in first, pressed the bearings in too far with a shoddy tool, and then hammered then out with a small metal rod. In the process he chipped the smooth surface on one side of the frame where the bearings sit. They also went in slightly sideways at first. He got them out, fit the clips, and then reinstalled with a better tool, but damage had already been done to the bb area of the frame. Really hope it's ok. If not I'll be asking for cash to buy another.

BB30 requires very, very precise tolerances - that's why it's been superseded largely by PF30, which doesn't.

This doesn't sound good, to be honest, it sounds like the frame might have been damaged.

BB30 requires very, very precise tolerances

Not really, it's just a normal bearing press fit, the kind of thing that passes without comment in hubs and normal BBs. The bore is 42mm with tolerance of -0.015 to -0.040, which is 25μm between go and no-go. Colloquially speaking, high precision is working to ±1μm, and fairly ordinary CNC shops routinely work to ±10μm. At best, you might say that BB30 requires precise tolerance on the bore of the BB shell. There is no specified tolerance on the concentricity or axial alignment of the two bearing seats, beyond an instruction to cut both seats with one cut.

that's why it's been superseded largely by PF30

PF30 is the work of an accountant, not an engineer. It certainly makes life easy for the frame builder, to have a cheap and highly compressible plastic shim between the bearing outer race and its seat, but you wouldn't accept that in your hubs and you shouldn't accept it in your BB.

Can I just use the old BBs please? :(

Are those the original forks? I really like it, other than the shape of the bars.

Nope. Forks were colnago stickered ones, but pretty sure they arent colnago either. Very similar to what numerius has on his flickr atm.

Yep, the bars dont look that good in the picture and they felt a bit long also. And the stems abit long too.

Nice tape-wrap Sumo.

Silly wheel for when fun and games are in order.

you a big boy, probably take two and a half of me the ride that

nah, they're only 650c

Can I have the wheel when you've finished with your fun and games?

won't be till after 24/8/14, but yes

9, 10 and 11 speed chains are 11/128", not 3/32". If the rings are made for 10v, you can use them with 11v chain etc., but the chainring spacing is slightly different so front indexing may be less than perfect.
Would Ultra Torque cranks in an otherwise 9 speed Shimano set-up work?

I've got 10 speed rings, but could get 9.

Thinking about shifting: do Campag rings sit further apart than Shimano?

New poster here, just finished this y'day, thoughts? Be gentle...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124928576@N06/14086759007/

Drive side shot:[

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124928576@N06/14086807177/in/photostream/
](https://www.flickr.com/photos/124928576@N06/14086759007/)

Get some driveside pix, but dont look bad at all!

could a solution be on the horizon?

http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/05/24/spy-shot-prototype-michelin-700x25c-rough-road-tire/

Pretty sure I've read that the Pro4 in 25mm actually comes up more like a 28mm.

nah, they're only 650c

"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to apollo again."

25's are fine - you are young. Man up!

You were right, even 23c GP4000s were fine after a while. But I'm still gonna get some 25 open pave's.

On a side note - my front wheel (RS11) really flexed when I put the hammer down this morning and the rim rubbed my brake pads quite badly. Is this because a) the wheels are flexy, b) I'm fat, c) my pads are too close to the rim or d) all three?

Brake wise, I don't really want the pads to be any further away from the rim Than they already are...

Would Ultra Torque cranks in an otherwise 9 speed Shimano set-up work?

I've got 10 speed rings, but could get 9.

Thinking about shifting: do Campag rings sit further apart than Shimano?

I think you've mistaken me for Lennard Zinn, he's your man for Shimergo 9½-speed set-ups.

I can't see any problems with using a 10v Campag chainset on an otherwise 9-speed Shimano bike apart from the previously noted question over FD indexing/trim.

There you go Machine, added a drive side pic. Was tempted to stick some lower profile rims more in keeping with the old school Cinelli quill stem and bars, plus maybe a black Brooks B17 Narrow, but quite like the mix of vintage parts and new wheels...

You were right, even 23c GP4000s were fine after a while. But I'm still gonna get some 25 open pave's.

On a side note - my front wheel (RS11) really flexed when I put the hammer down this morning and the rim rubbed my brake pads quite badly. Is this because a) the wheels are flexy, b) I'm fat, c) my pads are too close to the rim or d) all three?

Brake wise, I don't really want the pads to be any further away from the rim Than they already are...

check the cone nuts

On a side note - my front wheel (RS11) really flexed when I put the hammer down this morning and the rim rubbed my brake pads quite badly. Is this because a) the wheels are flexy, b) I'm fat, c) my pads are too close to the rim or d) all three?

Obviously a combination of the three. 16-spokes and a 24mm deep rim is never going to be super stiff. On the other hand, you could try riding more smoothly, as I'm happy with the RS-80-C24 and I doubt that you're any fatter than me. If you need more stiffness, then either deeper rims (RS31) or more spokes (R501) or both (R501-30) will be an improvement.