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So the Shimano UN55 I have is definitely too short (113mm here)
And I need to get a threadless one anyway, so I guess a 119 would be better?
According to this:http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=C50C795C-1016-4021-8AE8-9F68450FDE36&Enum=115&AbsPos=5
(my Shimano Golden Arrow crank is the standard 52/42 and the BB shell is the standard 68mm)
I know calculations for the perfect chainline (43mm in my case) is complicated, but I think this is all standard components, so I think I'll go with what Shimano suggested and get the 119mm threadless one.
I don't get what VeloBase means by:
The catalog (on velo-pages.com) gives the BB as 32-52-35 i.e. 119mm with 3mm overhang, so the modern symmetrical equivalent BB is 122mm.
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Lovely job, horrible tape and saddle.
I've got a bit of GA knocking around: I share your enthusiasm for it.
"32-52-35" are the measurements of an asymmetrical BB (NDS-centre-DS): the DS is 3mm longer than the NDS, so if you use a symmetrical BB it will need to be be 3mm longer in total.
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My front mech looks to be in similar condition, although the cage plate doesn't look quite as speckled.
Either way you're welcome to it, the mangled rear derailleur (might be some spares) and some braze-on shifters for the price of postage: I won't use them and I like your work!
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Thanks for the offer Scilly!
And thank you Skalliwag.
Just ordered a threadless bottom bracket for now (the YST one, then we'll see how it behaves)
A nice fellow on retrobike is shipping the charmsing (? Right spelling?) tool tomorrow (lent) and hopefully this Saturday will be the building it up day -
Thanks for the offer Scilly!
And thank you Skalliwag.
Just ordered a threadless bottom bracket for now (the YST one, then we'll see how it behaves)
A nice fellow on retrobike is shipping the charmsing (? Right spelling?) tool tomorrow (lent) and hopefully this Saturday will be the building it up dayHi Anidel, "threadless bottom bracket", for the sake of the ignorant such as myself could you explain what this item might be and possibly post a link to where such wonders may be purchased?
Cheers.
By the way, nice looking bike so far, love the paint. -
Sorry I thought I was the ignorant in the forum!! (which I am :))
If one's got damaged BB shell threads, she has several options to choose from:
a) cheap cartridge BB with press in plastic frame cups - YST?
b) Cartridge BBs with chamfered lockrings both sides that clamp across the BB shell. You put a 45° bevel on the inside edge on the BB shell to stop up & down movement. Mavic (610 (ish)) and Stronglight (JP1000) did them, but I don't think either are made any more. The main market was in France for people with old French threaded frames. They are good if you can find one.
c) add braze into the damaged threads and retap. Not full strength as the braze isn't as strong as steel
d) put a cut widthways across the BB shell, squeeze shut and braze. This reduces the BB shell diameter by enough to allow new threads to be cut into good metal
e) ream out the threads and braze a thin steel shell inside the BB shell. This may then be tapped as normal. This is how Argos did mine, and it's still good 8 years later.
f) Replace entire BB shell.
(from a thread on CTC forum)A threadless bottom bracket is, as the name says, a bottom bracket that does not require threads in the shell.
Particularly useful for damaged threads (like mine.)There are several types. The cheaper ones from YST which seem to run just fine for most riders (and the one I got: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121033854675?var=420114050288&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 is one of them)
Some people report that these needs tightening every now and then, some say no, so I guess it's a matter of how you mount it, hopefully my job will be a good one.
This one needs chamfering (proper word now!): http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=117049&start=0A better one is done by Velo Orange (the Gran Cru http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/grand-cru-threadless-bottom-brackets.html) which expands inside the BB shell and provides a better grip. Also more expensive.
The best is the Mavic 610 BB which is a bit on the hard side to find, as expensive as the Gran Cru, but it's supposed to last for ever and it probably does.
I went for the YST as at one point I'll re-thread that shell, but not now, so didn't want to spend much.
Thanks for the comments!
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No :p
From the missus to all of you no one liked them.
The saddle was a temporary one anyway.
A black Rolls will go on it.As per the handlebar tape I am still unconvinced on which color to go.
I've got the white hoods, so would like some contrast there.
Black Cinelli cork?More light brown leather (like proper Brooks tape? expensive though)
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^ I wouldnt go with the brooks tape, I've got it on one of my bikes and its bloodly expensive, its worn very quickly and is really slippy in the wet. Its a shame as it does mean you can match up the bars and saddle perfectly.
What about a Swift or B17 Narrow on this in dark brown?
If you go with the black Rolls I'd def change the hoods to black mind. Or if you keep them maybe go with a white Turbo/summat similar to match, or is that just a horrible, horrible suggestion? :)
Whatever you do its going to look bloody great!
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I've got too many saddles and already out of budget on this!! :)
Luckily saddles can be changed later on :pSame for bar tape (albeit a bit of a pain).
indeed I might be able to get NOS or new black hoods for the 105 brake levers, shouldn't be a problem or expensive...And could put white bar tape, which I always like...
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If I were you I'd protect your lovely paint from the band-ons of the shifters and the front mech. Just cut some black insulating tape applied to the inside of the bands.
Some shifters I bought for my Merican came to me like this and I thought 'what a good idea' and copied it on the mech band.
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If I were you I'd protect your lovely paint from the band-ons of the shifters and the front mech. Just cut some black insulating tape applied to the inside of the bands.
Some shifters I bought for my Merican came to me like this and I thought 'what a good idea' and copied it on the mech band.
Top tip that, I've also tried it with fabric tape, but it tends to fade and slip over time.
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Glue a piece of inner tube to the band; clamp onto an old frame tube; trim up: if you trim unclamped, the inner will be squashed past the band when you fit it.
Perforated Fizik Microtex is good for a classic look, especially teamed with a perforated saddle. Leather bar tape belongs with other such faux-retro nonsense: in the bin.
A chopped B17 or one of the racier Brooks would look ok, but I'd opt for something a little more modern such as a Rolls, Regal or Turbo.
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About
Holdsworth Mistral restoration
Posted by
@anidel
Warning: plenty of pictures!
Full Flickr album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/anidel/sets/72157643692675805/
Original thread on Retrobike: http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=293330
(I'll update both)
So I have got this Mistral frameset from MrGumpy here on the forum.
This was the frame as I got it from him:
and this is how it came back from Mario:
The bike will have as many as possible Shimano 105 Golden Arrow components. I liked the Arabesque too, but the Golden Arrow, IMHO, wins in style. The Arabesque was just too much! The Golden Arrow looks much more cleaner and I LOVE the shifters.
Shame I found the aereo downtube shifters on Pedal Pedlar only after I ordered these ones (and they were cheaper too! :()
So far I have got almost everything:
This is how it looks so far with all the components on (just for a quick look):
More pictures:
Group parts from resourceful MrGumpy (Golden Arrow crankset, headset, brakes [recessed though, on sale] and bottom bracket]
Swapped recessed brake calipers with nutted ones:
(still have the recessed ones, up for sale)
Managed to get an original Allez! pump:
GB stem:
NOS Kalloy seatpost:
Golden arrow front mech:
Golden arrow rear mech:
Campagnolo seatpost bolt:
Golden arrow downtube shifters (non aero) fresh in the post:
Mounted on the frame they look lovely:
105 brake levers with used leather tape:
(not sure about this color combination though)
It looks shiny, doesn't it?
