The Tester Approves thread (see first post)

Regarding steel tubing, I see your point, tester, but it's not really an option ATM

Why not? There are loads of old track irons to choose from. Still loads of hipster tax unfortunately, so complete bikes for £300 aren't as common as they were a decade ago, but you can still pick up something nice for £250 frame & fork.

I'd definitely go steel over alu, I'm not even convinced that the PX track is significantly more aero than 1 inch steel tubing. Looks aero doesn't always equal aero.

Basically I have some good contacts in Italy from where I get my parts but they don't deal with steel frames. Miche popped up as an option lately at some very interesting prices, still to verify, and I like them doing pretty much all the parts I need, so I am now considering it, hence the questions.;)

As of mid-2011, Pnut's 10 mile pb (sub 20:00) was on steel

1 Attachment

If you're entering entry-level tt's and dualathalons is there a reason you need to build a brand new bike as opposed to building something cheap and fast with bits from the classifieds on here and using the knowledge gained from riding the thing to plan a future big money build when you've got everything completely dialed?

I have already a cheap steel bike which needs substituting, and I used to do road races in Italy long time ago, so not new to bikes, only not as experienced as some of you here.

Also, I'm sure and I've seen there's good stuff in here but I can get good deals on my parts ATM so I'm focusing on those for now.

As of mid-2011, Pnut's 10 mile pb (sub 20:00) was on steel

And miche cranksets ;)

Btw what kind of ratio is that? The cog is invisible!

51x12

That's some crazy xxxx. Well done!

In comparison my best performance so far is a dismal 45 min 5 laps of regent's park on a 13 kg fixed gear on toe clips :(

I'd like to upgrade the handlebars on my road bike to something stiffer, and with a compact drop. I was looking at these as they seem to have good stiffness for the weight:
http://www.probikekit.co.uk/bicycle-handlebars-stems/deda-newton-handlebars/10770546.html

Also I'll need a new stem.

The old bars are quite bendy, it turns out.

Is your current stem 26mm?

Yep.

If memory serves me, Tester likes Pro stuff for finishing kit, and would you look at that! I'm selling some!

On a more related note though, is bigger, better tester? For example dedas 35mm stems/handlebars, are they a good idea?

I remember reading, on Velonews I think, a mechanics opinion the OS bars were basically a marketing gimmick, I think suggesting that even for most pro's the extra stiffness, at least on the road, is unnecessary.

I'd like to upgrade the handlebars on my road bike to something stiffer, and with a compact drop. I was looking at these as they seem to have good stiffness for the weight:
http://www.probikekit.co.uk/bicycle-handlebars-stems/deda-newton-handlebars/10770546.html

Also I'll need a new stem.

The old bars are quite bendy, it turns out.

Unless they've updated the Newtons like they have the Piegas, none of them offer the compact drop you are after.

The Zero100 or either of the RHM models would be a better bet.

Yep.

It might be worth having a look at the 26mm compact bars thread, as there are a few options which wouldn't require a stem change.

The Deda Piega bars I have (in 40cm ctc) feel very stiff.

Cheers both.

Tester likes Pro stuff for finishing kit

This is true. I have big hands and I particularly like the Vibe bars with the fat tops. The rest of the kit may or may not be any better value than other Taiwanese offerings, but having Shimano do the QA takes all the risk out of it.

For example dedas 35mm stems/handlebars, are they a good idea?

This is moot. There is one school of thought that says 26mm road bars can provide more comfort and lower drag, and a small weight penalty is a price worth paying.

@tester

Might be a stupid question but how do you space out your rear Novatech hub to 120 OLD if going for the Fireye chain tensioners method? What is the cleanest solution, do I need the nut on the bearing, then washers, locknut and then fireeye tensioners? Remeber seeing this, but not sure if it helps me exactly...

The Novatec track hubs are already 120mm, so if you don't want to change either that or the chainline, you just re-use the spacing nuts and locknuts just as they left the factory.

The axles need to be shortened and tapped per this drawing, but symmetrically if you're not changing the chainline.

1 Attachment

Well, that much logical way of thinking I possessed anyhow :) I was rather refering to mounting the chain tensioners (4 mm) on the inside, which would usually mean that I would need to change the spacing nuts (8 mm) and lock nuts (6 mm) assembly (symmetrically of course) to get the 120 mm OLD spot on again. My question was how to do this without keeping those fugly nuts provided with the hub (i.e. aluminium washers 10 mm + flat lock nuts 4 mm + chain tensioner 4 mm would give me the same spacing) and if all would be techically sound in this set up?

The tugs go outside the track ends.

Makes more sense, I'll make sure to check the chainline before I cut anything! Thanks

Is there a tester approved track crankset?
Budget and high end?

I think he has a mod for Campagnolo ultra torque cranks somewhere but I haven't a clue about campag so my knowledge ends there.