Dura-Ace 7710 bottom bracket installatio - small gap on LH side

I've just changed the bottom bracket/crankset on my Samson from a square taper Hatta R9400/Dura-Ace 7600 to an Octalink Dura-Ace 7710 BB (68mm shell/109.5mm spindle)/crankset.

Following the 7710 installation instructions I first installed the main body of the BB from the right side, tigthening to 50Nm torque (it specifies 50-70Nm, but my torque wrench only goes up to 60Nm). That side sits completely flush with the BB shell. The instructions then specify to install the LH adapter, which I also installed and tightened to 50Nm. However, this does not sit completely flush with the BB shell, there is a small gap as pictured:

I doubt increasing the torque would affect the gap, the spindle spins freely, and it seems rock solid. Should I be worrying about the gap? Is this normal?

maybe the bb shell is not wide enough to accomodate the width of the bb.

if chainline is ok and there's no play in the axle ild get some bb spacers from your lbs and fill up the gap just for peace of mind.

a full pic of your samson please?

All threads are were cleaned then greased?

If it's a new frame maybe it needs needs the shell threads chasing.

That's got my vote- threads need either tapping further on the NDS, or chasing through.

There should not be that gap.

Hi all, is it not possible that the LH adapter (removable ring) has bottomed out on the BB?

I don't understand why the 7710 has a sort of psedo lockring on the LH adapter, as I used the splined BB tool to tighten it.

Other similar BBs don't have the flange on the LH side, so it just tightens until it it bottoms out:

In my case it looks like that happened before the flange touched the BB shell, which perhaps is preferable... if the LH adapter touches the BB shell then surely there is a risk of it not being installed snug enough on the BB body?

The way to know this for sure would have been to just try the LH adapter on its own to see if it ran out of thread or not. In any case I like the idea of the BB spacers for neatness.

The lockring grip is just an extra way of getting some purchase, useful if the splines get mashed.

Yes it's possible it's bottomed out. I don't think it should though.

LBS time I reckon.

Thanks for the input, I'm going disassemble it after tonight's derny session and do a bit of measuring to figure out what's going on.

hold up. there is a lockring on the left hand cup innit? i reckon you tightened it using the inner splines of the bb? now you just hold the cup in position using the bb tool and tighten te lockring using a lockringtool. i think this bn is built like this to allow for an adjustable chainline.

oh shit. thats the 7700bb. but if the bb is snug and no play on the spindle, it works right?

It's not a lockring as such, it's just the flange on the LH side that looks like a lockring. The more I think about it the more I think it can't be a problem and it's by design. The BB shell is exactly 68mm (I measured it with a caliper), but this way it can accommodate slight variances (i.e. very slightly wider BB shell) and still clamp down properly on the BB.

The BB is snug and no play, it's just that it's odd seeing a gap.

All threads are were cleaned then greased?

You didn't answer this?

If it still doesn't go flush after that get the threads chased.

You were right, I took it all out and there was some gunk in the left hand side which stopped the cup screwing in after 50Nm. I did it manually with a wrench a few times to clean it up and it went in easy after that - completely flush. Thanks for your advice! :-)

No problem. It's pretty common. Glad you are sorted.