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• #2
Measure the headset and the width of the bottom bracket (BB) with some calipers.
If you don't have calipers you should buy some. They are a useful worthwhile investment.
If it's got an odd sizing headset it shouldn't be much of an issue as I think you can still find the headsets cheap (assuming you can't service it). The BB is more of a pain as it I think buying replacements are more expensive, or you'll need the BB faced down a bit by a shop.
If it's got loose cup and cone bearings then I'd probably keep the BB and just replace the ball bearings and service.
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• #3
Thanks for your reply.
I'll get some calipers asap and report back with measurements.Since the headset was seized, I was planning on getting a new one. It's moving freely now, I've not managed to remove it as my adjustable spanners aren't wide enough.
If the headset is 26 tpi will it follow that the BB will be "odd" too?
I haven't removed the BB yet, waiting for crank extractor to arrive from ebay seller. -
• #4
That's very rusty. Don`t put too much money into that frame.:-[
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• #5
The frame is actually very solid and I've managed to remove a lot of the rust already.
Managed to get the cranks off last night and removed the bottom bracket. The spindle is stamped 3S2 - not sure if this helps determine if it's 26tpiCalipers will be delivered on Monday, so I'll update this thread with headset measurements then.
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• #6
From http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Assuming 3S2 is the same as 3S then the shell width is 68mmCross referencing this with the table "Bottom Bracket Threading" at the bottom of the same page it says I'll have 24 tpi if the shell width is 68mm. And that the 26tpi BBs have shell widths of 71mm or 76mm
I'll measure the shell width when I get back from work to confirm.
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• #7
Nice.
Which color will you put on? -
• #8
I've bought some decals from ebay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321062132294), so I'll need to find a colour that's close to the original.
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• #9
There are plenty of colors to choose from then :) just look on Flickr.
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• #10
I measured the bottom bracket shell and it's 68mm. I'm pretty happy it's standard bb sizing. I removed the fixed cup and have ordered a cheapie sealed bottom bracket with 110.5mm axle.
I'm hoping the chain line will be ok... if it's not then I won't have wasted much money.I'm now planning to just replace the bearings in the headset and find a new locknut.
I've also bought a crank and wheels on ebay. Hoping they'll be ok.
Paint stripping and rust removal going well, still a couple of hours to go.
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• #11
anidel - I'm going to be spraying it myself (trying to keep costs down). So hoping an off the shelf colour from Halfords will be close to original
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• #12
Here's the crankset and wheels I've ordered
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191112931350
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390806379024 -
• #13
Got it.
Is it a light frame?
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• #14
Not really :)
It's steel.
I really want a fixie and it was the only suitable frame I could get hold of (thank you freecycle).
I'm getting quite attached to the frame, now that I've spent hours getting it back to a good state. -
• #15
so it's truwel like mine. Still a lovely ride. You might not win competitions on it, but would be perfect for commuting or 'pub' bike.
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• #16
yeah I'm planning to use it for my daily commute to work. I'm enjoying building it from scratch. Just hope I buy the "correct" bits!
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• #17
Simply ask here:)
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• #18
Thanks.
The frame was meant to take 27" wheels, but I've bought 700c. Is there a type/make of brake calliper that is more likely to fit? -
• #19
I am not an expert, just love Carltons. But I think you have to look for what are called long reach brakes.
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• #20
Because the 700c wheels are smaller than 27" ones.
However there are 27" wheels with aluminum RIMs which would have been nicer :P :) -
• #21
Ah, shame I bought the 700s last night on ebay :(
Thanks for the info on "long reach" calipers. There are plenty on ebay.
Cheers -
• #22
Thanks.
The frame was meant to take 27" wheels, but I've bought 700c. Is there a type/make of brake calliper that is more likely to fit?You might need brakes with the longer drop (wait till you get the wheels and measure the drop to the brake surface).
Regarding the chainline, you can always respace the axle and redish the wheel - if the chainline is off for 1-2 mm I wouldn't bother doing this.
As the frame was intendend for 27" wheels you will have quite big gaps (not very aesthetically pleasing ;)) so you might consider some biger tires (32-700c) and mudguards to fill them up!
Building from scratch is fun and can be very rewarding, good luck!
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• #23
I'd go for mudguards and 28-700c wheels. And for wheels Schwalbe Marathon Plus or, lighter, the Supreme.
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• #24
Thanks, I was thinking of some short mudguards. I'll go for large tyres too.
I'm hoping the wheels will arrive in a day or so (they were sent today) I'll measure the gap then.Really appreciate all the advice.
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• #25
The Schwalbe look nice, but might be a bit over budget. I may have to go for something a bit cheaper...
I wanted to convert my Raleigh Pursuit into a fixie, then after some initial research I realised that I had vertical dropouts :(
Anyway I managed to get hold of a very rusty Carlton Criterium frame, which has nice horizontal ones. The guy was taking it to the dump, so I was hoping to give it a new life.
My heart sank when I first saw it.
http://www.lfgss.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82147&stc=1&d=1395931052
It's a 1980.
Undaunted I started renovation.
Now, after several hours of sanding and scraping, I've removed much of the rust and have un-siezed the forks. (I'll post an up to date picture later)
Up until a few weeks ago I didn't know the terms: dropout, bottom bracket, headset, etc. But I've been studying Sheldon Brown trying to get "up to speed".
I'm starting this thread to keep a record of the work and I'm going to have a few questions during the course of the build... I hope I'll find help from this forums members.
The cranks are cotterless and reading Sheldon this seems to imply that I won't have a 26 tpi headset and bottom bracket. How can I check?
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