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DA9000 won't require drilling, but if Enigmatic wants Di2 (and frankly I can understand why he would) then suggesting DA9000 doesn't really satisfy that requirement. I wouldn't go around drilling holes in carbon frames which were not design to have those holes drilled in them, but the S2/S3 frame evidently was designed for the mods set out in the Cervelo instructions. As I understand it modifying the frame in accordance with Cervelo's instructions does not invalidate the warranty.
Other people might take a different view, of course, but if Enigmatic is happy to modify his frame in the same way I did with mine then I'd say that's up to him.
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Doing it yourself does invalidate the cervelo warranty... has to be done by a mechanic at an approved cervelo dealer. This is a secondhand frame so largely irrelevant.
Also the E wire port behind the ICS 3 openings was designed for power meter cables of a smaller diameter than the di2 plug that needs a large hole. The frame can cope with it as i have seen it done a number of times. This leaves the battery issue and control box. The massive enlargement of the cable hole below the bb is not in the cervelo instructions and thats the one that scares me... lots of torsional force going through an area you are removing material from... doesn't seem wise on a 2k plus frame. Bottle cage hole placement on the s2 and 3 are low and close which can force you to lose a bottle if you use it with this frame. Chain-stays are tight on the original s3 (documented issued with zipps and other wide rims) so i would avoid zipties to chainstay to mount the battery.
OP asked for advice- Di2 is very nice but all reports are that DA 9000 shifts so well it doesn't matter. Most peoples 'advice' would be fit the group the frame was designed for rather than forcing a square peg in to a round hole... or plump for the new di2 / mechanical designed S3 available in December.
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The hole which has to be increased in size (rather than drilled from scratch) is the one underneath the BB. It has to be increased in size not in order to get the cables in and out but in order to get the junction box in and out, so the size of the cables isn't really the limiting factor. The sub-BB hole does have to be increased slightly but, as the Cervelo notes say, not by much.
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You had just taken delivery of a new Dremel and were keen to test it's efficacy?
My initial approach if I was setting this bike up would be to test fit the complete wiring loom without cutting/drilling anything that I absolutely did not have to injure.
The official in-seatpost battery is seemingly much cheaper now (than when I bought the damn thing) but my bike is proof that you can make a very effective in-seatpost battery for less than a tenner, so I might be tempted to do that instead.
I don't know if an unofficial battery would charge through the front wiring harness though- that might be worth checking out, although that said I think I've seen the guy who sells DIY battery kits on eBay claim that you just need to plug a charging wire into a spare port on a shifter to power the whole thing up.
I might try that myself, actually.
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This is a good page: http://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-everything-you-need-to-know/
Brommers
JS-187
Dammit
a2arnold-
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Cervelo S3- My second build - I will need help on this one!
Posted by
@Enigmatic
Modifying frames is entirely possible and you may never have an issue but i am just saying that a good mech groupset like DA9000 wont require this and be hastle free in the long term.
Having sent frames back to cervelos for BB cracks in the past I would not be enlarging any holes with a dremel in that area if i intended to ride it for years... read Bob Parlees thoughts on additional holes in frames requiring changes in the layup.
Anyway its a great frame... I would avoid drilling unless you have the money to replace the frame in the event of a fault (because warranty wont cover you).